Hiking 6:27:20 [1] 13.91 mi (27:51 / mi) +1189m 22:00 / mi
ahr:124 max:199
So, the hiking trail in Hawaii, and perhaps the world, is the Kalalau Trail. 11 miles along the Na Pali coastal cliffs, with waterfalls, beaches and stunning tropical scenery. Generally done as a backpacking trip. Permits open 90 days ahead of time and sell out quickly.
We were not on top of our shit 90 days ahead of time. You can hike the first two miles and then two more up a stream to a waterfall, but for that you need either a parking space ($50ish, and hard to get unless you are kama aina in which case it's free) or shuttle ride ($40 per person). A bit of a racket, but apparently they put the money to good use.
But sometimes camping permits come up as people cancel. There are websites which will crawl and alert you (for a fee), I didn't want to build my own scraper, but a couple of weeks ago I clicked the site, saw two slots for our last day, our flight wasn't until 17:25 and CLICK CLICK CLICK we had our passes. Only $135—$35 per person per night plus $40 for two days of parking (you have to buy two days). I hope they put this to good use. (Try to sneak in without a permit and you can get a summons which requires you to show up in person, and Hawaii is far away!)
Original plan: wake up at like 0430, hit the trail for sunrise, try to do the whole thing. After yesterday, that seemed a bit much, so we aimed for the waterfall about 7 miles in. The 800' waterfall. It was stunning. 100% worth the trip and money. I could have spent an hour looking up at the falls. Past there is "Crawler's Ledge" and way more exposed and apparently just as spectacular and the consensus was "yeah, we will come back and hike the whole trail again, maybe over more time, maybe carrying less" (burying the lede here is that we're expecting in October so I carried a pack with about 5l of water and Elena carried a nothing).
We didn't get a super-early start but hit the trail around 9. The footing was good-to-decent although in a lot of places there is a 500' drop off, it's hilly and, oh, yeah, it's a hilly trail. We made decent time to the waterfall, but then realized we'd have to hoof it back to make our flight. Elena has been slowing down when her thoughts get the best of her, so I made her "talk story" most of the way back and we made it back a bit slower than I would have liked but with enough time.
And by enough, I mean we had to pack up our stuff and do a final clean of the condo, get gas, and get to the airport. Returned the car, onto the bus, too late to check bags, line for pre-check which we played the "the door closes in 13 minutes can we sneak by" game and we had 8 minutes, so plenty of time.
Then our bags got jammed in TSA. Elena went to the gate. I waited for the bags. They got it sorted out. We made the plane by 1 minute. But left on time.
So a bit more stress than necessary! But after several rainy/cloudy days, this was 100% worthwhile. And since we didn't actually hike the whole trail, now we have to go back to Kauai.