North Peak to Conness linkup
Went out planning to just climb the right, easiest couloir of North Peak. However, when I got to the base, the middle couloir looked so awesome that I just said fuck it, I have to do that. It was mostly neve, not too much blue ice, and only one section of rock to link the upper and lower sections. Freaking great. Climbed it in a t-shirt and boardshorts.
I'm also getting much better at climbing rock in crampons. I don't have that feeling of imminent death all the time anymore... (just most of the time)
Topped out the couloir and it was only 10AM so I figured I would tag the summit. It turned out to be only a pitch of easy rock and a small snowfield away, so I still had plenty of time. The ridge traverse to Conness looked sick, but it was 2.5 miles of 5th class and I wasn't sure I could make it. It looked kinda scary. 1000+ ft drops on either side.
I decided to just try some of it, but then ended up finishing the whole thing. It was hours of nonstop climbing on solid granite interspersed with knife-edge snow ridges. Type I fun for sure.
Topped out Conness at 1:30PM and descended the east ridge. Steep slushy snow and corniced sections made it take a long time.
Got down without incident, just an AMS headache and the worst sunburn ever. Definitely worth it.
Middle couloir and N Ridge Conness
Not my pictures.