Birkebeinerrennet 2015Birkebeinerrennet is a 54 km classic-style cross-country ski race that travels over two mountains from Rena to Lillehammer, Norway. It’s one of the largest XC ski races in the world and is part of the World Loppet Series, which includes races like the Vasaloppet in Sweden, the Gatineau Loppet in Canada and the American Birkebeiner. In recent years, up to 17,000 skiers have taken part but this year, there were only 13,000 - likely due to last year’s controversial cancellation on race day due to high winds in the mountains.
Detailed mapThe race, which started in 1932, commemorates a challenging ski journey through these mountains and forests in 1206 when Birkebeiner loyalists carried infant prince Håkon Håkonsson to safety in Trondheim. The Birkebeiners (“birch legs”) were an underdog political faction in the Norwegian civil war and were thus named because some were so poor that they wrapped birch bark around their legs instead of wearing proper footwear. It was originally an insult but today the name carries a sense of pride, strength and endurance. All race participants must carry a backpack weighing at least 3.5 kg, symbolizing the weight of the (obviously underfed) two-year-old heir to the throne. A few people tied big dolls to the back of their packs. :)
Birken also organizes half a dozen smaller ski events, several running races including a 57 km ultra, and several cycling events including the 122 km Birkebeinerrittet, the largest mountain bike race in the world.
http://www.birkebeiner.no/en/Richard and I love cross-country skiing but we aren’t ski racers and don’t even use groomed ski tracks very often. Mostly we just play, exploring local trails or bushwhacking. Without any ski racing credentials, we would have had to start in an unseeded wave at the end of the 2.5 hour start window. To avoid that, we skied the 51 km Gatineau Loppet last month, which qualified us for Wave 11 (Richard) and Wave 16 (me) of 26 non-elite waves at the Birkie.
In the week leading up to the race, skiers talked incessantly about waxing. The local weather forecast was accompanied by a daily wax recommendation involving various products we didn’t – and likely never *would* - own, e.g. “use a horse hair brush or perhaps a wild boar brush”. Apparently, Norwegians own brushes made of every kind of animal. In every sports store, there was a huge display of waxes and related gizmos with people having animated conversations in front. The weather had been warm and icy so we were using klister and other sticky waxes but race day was going to be cooler with 6-8 cm of new snow the previous day.
Swix offered professional waxing services at the race check-in so Richard and I splurged and got glide wax (although not the expensive “racing” version) and several coats of base binder and colder grip wax. On race day, we would just add our final grip wax layers. The race is so big that there were different grip wax recommendations for Richard’s start wave vs. mine.
Cristina listened to what the professionals were doing to our skis, then prepared her skis the same way in our cabin’s dedicated waxing room, aka washroom.
Our other challenge that afternoon was stuffing enough items into our packs to total over 3.5 kg at both the start and finish of the race. It’s surprising how unhelpful our lightweight gear can be sometimes. I carried a full thermos of water that I couldn’t touch since it had to be there at the finish. I also carried 6 ski waxes and I tried unsuccessfully to stuff in a book.
The race started in Rena, which was a 2-hour drive from our cabin in Nordseter near Lillehammer. Thanks to Melissa’s generous offer to drive, we didn’t have to take the 4:30 a.m. bus to the start, which gave us an extra 75 minutes of sleep. By the way, in case Melissa’s employers read this, she really did spend most of the weekend working!
Cristina looked ready to rock.
This is Richard’s Start Wave 11; he seems to be hiding though.
This is my Wave 16 – we had 25 tracks! And there was another wave lining up beside us with 25 more tracks. It narrowed to “just” 12 tracks by the time we left the stadium. There were 425 people in my wave – as many skiers as there were in the classic Gatineau Loppet!
Zooming waaaaay in… here’s proof that I took hydration seriously.
Here’s what the start looked like from my point of view.
Unfortunately, I misjudged my time and was forced to choose between lining up for a porta-potty or putting two final coats of grip wax on my skis after my test. I figured I could wax later once I was sure it was needed.
We started skiing and immediately began a gradual 500+ m climb up the first mountain. My grip wax slipped from the start. I knew conditions would change at a higher altitude so I waited. When I was still slipping after 6 km, I pulled off the trail and took a 4-minute waxing break. I had enough grip after that but probably should have gone with the colder wax recommended for Richard’s wave since my skis felt sluggish for both grip and glide. I missed Goose’s magic fairy dust that made my skis feel quick at the Gatineau Loppet.
Aid stations were simple and well designed for skier traffic; they offered different drinks and a few snacks. I mostly drank juice, ate banana slices and scarfed down a few
lefse - Norwegian pastries with cinnamon, sugar and butter.
As suspected, my Wave 16 seeding based on the Gatineau Loppet was too generous. Looking at the results, Wave 19 would have been more appropriate but I was grateful to be surrounded by skilled skiers, many of whom gradually moved on ahead. :)
The weather was spectacular with brilliant sunshine, clear long distance views and temperature just below freezing.
One reason Richard and I wanted to do a Scandinavian loppet was to be part of a skiing event in a place where skiing is as important as hockey is in Canada. It gave us a way to get inside the culture of another country. It’s the same reason I enjoyed UTMB so much. Our usual sports are outside the mainstream at home and it’s fun to be part of an event that makes the general public excited.
Oh, and sometimes intoxicated. Ski clubs, cabin owners, skiers and random Norwegians gathered along the trail to cheer us on. I wish I’d taken photos; this is the only one I found through Google.
(Obviously not my photo!)Spectators built snow benches and elaborate snow block walls to stop the wind. They hung big Norwegian flags, cooked over portable grills and enjoyed beverages of all kinds. They brought chairs, coolers, cushions and costumes including a few mascots like a huge dancing Bugs Bunny. Some of them brought treats to share, either with members of their own ski club or with anyone passing near their side of the trail. Random people tried to hand me cold Coke (delicious!) or a single chip (ew, disgusting). One cheerful fellow standing between the tracks tried hard to place a bottle of beer in my hand! They shouted “Heia, heia, heia!!” at us and sang songs. There were musicians providing live entertainment at the aid stations. So much fun!
I stopped a few times to take photos. Unlike Gatineau, my time didn’t matter so it felt like a fun ski tour.
By the time we got to Sjusjoen, we had 14 km left with a mix of steep downhills and flats.
This is where the race started getting a little less fun for me. Skiers dropped a lot of trash, much of it in the tracks. I was in a tuck going down a moderate hill when one of my skis hit a sticky gel wrapper (one of many that I’d already hit) and stopped suddenly. I did a hard face plant that surprised me with its impact since I didn’t feel like I was going that fast. That took away some of my nerve at a bad time – just before the steep downhills where we would lose most of the 300 m of elevation we had to drop on the way to the finish.
These downhills were narrower sections of twisting forest trail that had turned into two icy half pipes, each the width of a skier doing a partial snow plow, with a small drift of soft snow in between. It was totally skiable although not a fun nor relaxing way to give back the elevation we had gained. The thing that made it scary for me was the steady stream of skiers, some in control and some not. I’m used to skiing alone in a quiet forest, not on a track and not with crowds, and this was when my racing inexperience came into play. Some confident skiers shot past on one side or another with their skis parallel. Others veered or teetered back and forth, some rear-ended other skiers, and some crashed hard, usually causing a back-up of other bodies who fell behind them to avoid serious injury. There was a collection of broken poles along the side of the trail.
All I could think of was our friend Sian, a much better skier than I, currently on crutches after a fall on a smaller hill with a similarly uneven snow surface. There was potential to destroy my knee or my 2015 running season here so I pulled off the trail and froze like a deer in the headlights while dozens of skiers flew by. There were three particularly treacherous sections and it hit me the same way every time. I would try to wait and go when there were no skiers behind and no bodies ahead but that happened so rarely that I would finally jump in and ski down with my heart racing. There was a corner where we were directed to one side because the medics were getting ready to go up the hill. No surprise there.
In between, there were flats and gentle downhills so I could double pole – more work than it should have been with my poor glide but a welcome reprieve after the steep bits. Finally we rounded the bend into sunny Birkebeiner Stadium on the eastern edge of Lillehammer – such a wonderful feeling!
I finished in 5:30:20, about the same time as the 51 km Gatineau Loppet, right around my estimate. That put me about 2/3 of the way back in my age group, ahead of a few women with “real skier” names like Grete, Bjorg, Liv, Birgit and Guri. :) I hadn’t expected better than that.
Cristina’s first Birkebeinerrennet in 2013 was a tough experience but with her improved seeding in today’s great conditions, she had a very good race and finished in 5:13, around the middle of her age group.
Richard had an excellent race, finishing in 4:02 after stopping before the finish line to search in vain for the Canadian flag he had tucked too deep into his pack. He was also in the middle of his 5-year age group, which included 1200 racers!
We celebrated with Indian food and got our only post-race skier photo. Great day – great trip! :) Huge thanks to Cristina and Melissa for all their tour guiding, travel advice and assistance.