Hiking 3:00:00 [1] 21.0 km (8:34 / km) +2288m 5:33 / km
shoes: 201506 Asics Fuji Attack 4
Assault on Rundle! While my trip hadn't been explicitly catered to climb Rundle, I had arranged to arrive Thursday and depart late Tuesday to allow for an attempt. I think this compromised my racing to some extent, as my legs were definitely tired on Saturday and Sunday. It is difficult to have everything.
After a pleasant afternoon and evening of socializing with the Canadians + Will and Biggins, I left Tori's at about 9:30p, drove to the Willow Rock campground, and plopped my tent. I woke up at 3:30, packed everything up, and drove to the EEOR trailhead. I wasn't seriously considering a Traverse; while there was a bus from Banff to Canmore, getting from Canmore to EEOR would have been tedious, so I was committing to returning to the trailhead. I packed four liters of mixed gatorade/water, some M&Ms, Snickers, sunscreen, a jacket, gloves, toque, my phone, and my usual bag o' survival stuff including an emergency blanket, matches, knife, and whistle/compass. Unusually, I didn't have a map. Two glaring errors were I forgot to put in my contacts and my watch wasn't fully charged (hence the patchy track).
Hiking through the night and reaching the ridge just as dawn hit was sublime. It was gloriously cool and pleasant, and the beauty of the mountains cascading into the distance in the gentle light of the rising sun was overwhelming.
My trek to Rundle 4 - my previous turn around point - proceeded uneventfully in about three hours. The few tricky sections felt trivial - since I had already done them, and I was in good form when I started the descent from Rundle 4 to the main peak of Rundle 3. Leaving Rundle 4 required downclimbing a good 10-15m pitch, and seeing holds to place my feet was tricky. The actual trek from 4 to 3 took longer than I expected, but I arrived at the base of the Rundle 3 rock at about 8:30. It's a little tricky to see from the photos, but there is a clear buttress on the SE ridge of Rundle 3. The route that I had read about ascended south of the buttress and up a steep reentrant, climbing a sequence of steps. My first attempt went up the ridge too quickly, and I found myself surrounded by steep walls (waypoint 9). I descended a bit, then traversed west to a different couloir-ish guy with two streams running down it. I climbed a set of shelves that in my head I dubbed the first through fifth steps to about 2840m by my watch. At this point, I had basically stopped scrambling and was climbing. Foremost on my mind was assessing whether I could downclimb each section, and a few times, I backtracked to make sure. Some of the pitches were steep and disconcerting in that I couldn't see my feet at all while downclimbing and had to step by feel and memory alone.
I have read much of summit fever and otherwise intelligent people making bad decisions in the stress of an ascent; eventually, I decided that it was becoming too risky to keep going. Beyond the challenge of downclimbing, I was very concerned I might lose the route - and many of the steps only had a few points at which they could be challenged. Looking ahead, I really think I could have proceeded further, and maybe even made it to the top, but given that I am inexperienced and was traveling solo, it was the right call to turn around. I also had the tricky descent and the ridge ahead; as has been said, getting up is only half the battle.
The views and journey were fantastic, and the challenge was within my abilities but formidable enough that I grew and improved through this adventure. I considered making a different scramble for Tuesday - e.g. Cascade, since a Traverse was impossible, but I'm glad I attempted Rundle, even if I fell short. It was a wonderful experience and memory, and perhaps some day, I will return to Canmore even stronger to continue my adventures in the mountains. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, support, and knowledge - especially Tori and Marion, and to Will for the pep talks.