Hike 7:00:00 [2] 30.0 km (14:00 / km) +650m 12:38 / km
My one and only previous visit to the Grad Canyon was in 2011 and coming back has always been on the bucket list. Spending at least a night under the rim was also on the wish list. A few weeks before the trip I applied for an overnight permit and was lucky enough to get one for Deer Creek. Our route was from Monument Point to the Thunder River Trail via Bill Hall trail, down Tapeats creek, downriver to the Deer Creek valley and back to the Thunder river trail and out. Most groups seem to do this route in 4-5 days but I thought two days was doable. It turned out that the first day was long (9 hours) but not crazy. Three days would be more pleasant while anything longer seems painful as you would need to dry camp at least one night which means carrying a lot of water.
The Canyon at this point is quite wide with a prominent wide terrace feature called the Esplanade. This made the descent more stepped than closer to the main corridor. The first descent through the Kaibab and Toroweap layers was loose and scrambly in spots then a long 5km flat traverse across the esplanade which was very reminiscent of being in Canyon lands near Moab. This was followed by a steep descent into Surprise Valley through Supai and Redwall sandstone. We cached a litre in the descent for our climb out tomorrow (had cached the first litre at the start of the Esplanade). Surprise valley was quite hot but we both seemed to be handling the heat OK. Pace was steady but not pushing it. I felt like my appetite and fluid intake was good all day. once we crested the small rise and dropped into the Thunder river valley drainage we could see the Thunder river starting dramatically from the side of a cliff. This spring was a beautiful oasis with cool temperatures and shade from the trees growing close to the water source.
After our first lunch break we continued down the Tapeats valley (which looking upstream is quite impressively narrow with steep and high vertical walls). We stayed in the alternate high water route in the west side of the creek. This avoided two creek crossings - there were a few exposed sections but nothing too scary. This section seemed to go on for a while and this was the first time I felt that AR feeling of let's just get this done... :)
We reached the Colorado River after a very scenic trail section through the final Tapeats Creek narrows and stopped for lunch break number two. From here to Deer Creek is not an official trail but the route was straightforward and the last half was an excellent trail. There was some boulder hopping along the river, some scrambling and some traversing above the river. My feet were getting a little sore and my calves were also a bit tight but otherwise felt OK. I was surprised at the amount of water (or lack of) in the river as I always imagined it to be a huge river. No wonder California has no water...
We passed above the Granite Narrows which were quite cool to see and finally crested the col above Deer Creek valley. A short descent brought us to camp which was nicely situated in a cool spot close to the creek. A nice evening with pleasant temperatures sleeping without the fly. Bucket list objective accomplished... :) I said this last time and this trip confirmed it but seeing the Canyon from below is a great experience. Though scenic from the rim you miss a lot of the grandeur from up there.